Copan Ruinas Honduras

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Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Interesting ant hills in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Close up of stone work used by the ancients at the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Sign along the path in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Sign designating one of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Sign along the foot path in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Mosquito ally through the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: What archaeologists found when they first visited the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

COPAN RUINAS: Details of one of the best preserved Stellae (Estela) in the main archaeological ruins area.

COPAN RUINAS: This is the paved foot path that connects the town to the archaeological park about a mile away... a very pleasant stroll through green pastures and shady trees.

COPAN RUINAS: Along the paved foot path there are several estela like this as well as many unexcavated mounds covering more ruins.

COPAN RUINAS: Display of things being offered by vendors at the entrance to the archaeological park.

COPAN RUINAS: Miniature display of the layout of the ruins. It is located near the ticket sellers booth. Another angle.

COPAN RUINAS: The path to the ruins meanders along 400 meters through a lovely landscaped jungle setting.

COPAN RUINAS: Miniature display of the layout of the ruins. It is located near the ticket sellers booth. Entrance to the park is $10/day.

COPAN RUINAS: Inside the gated fence this is my first glimpse of the ruins.

COPAN RUINAS: Inside the gated fence this is the first major group of structures we see of the ruins.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: Sign next to one of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: Sign for Altar G1 in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: A grouping of structures in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: This stone sculpture workshop sits across the street from the entrance to the main archaeological park. Here we see one of the artists at work.

COPAN RUINAS: Sculpture of the "Corn God" on display in the Copan Archaeological Museum in the Parque Central.

COPAN RUINAS: Continuation of the street that runs along the south side of the plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: Continuation of the street that runs along the west side of the plaza. This block is the main commercial area for tourists and always has sidewalk vendors selling crafts favored by the backpacking crowd.

COPAN RUINAS: This is the street that runs along the east side of the plaza. Here too we have sidewalk vendors selling crafts. Notice the cobblestone road paving used throughout the town.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the replica sculptures in the central Plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: Armed National Policeman guards the central Plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: The Copan Archaeological Museum sits on the west side of the central plaza. This is the entrance.

COPAN RUINAS: Stelae from the near-by ruins on display in the Copan Archaeological Museum in the Parque Central.

COPAN RUINAS: Sculpture from the near-by ruins on display in the Copan Archaeological Museum in the Parque Central.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the sculptures in the central Plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: A delightful display of Bougainville blossoms at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: They rebuild these gorgeous floral displays every few days at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: A view of the pool area at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the elaborate floral displays at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: A view of a landscaped area at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: A view of the pool area at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the more popular restaurants in town favored by the backpacker crowd. It is famous for the waitresses who balance food on their heads on their way to guest�s tables.

COPAN RUINAS: The old wood cutter; notice his machete.

COPAN RUINAS: This sign shows Copan is only 17 miles from the Guatamalan border. The road out of town runs by the cemetery.

COPAN RUINAS: High rent district in the main city cemetery.

COPAN RUINAS: Outside the city looking east toward the center of town.

COPAN RUINAS: I found this vigorously growing thicket of SARSA plants growing outside town near a corn field. A ground cover variety called Sarsa Dormilona appears identical to a plant I discovered in Malasia and Indonesia. The leaves when touched, shrivel up.

COPAN RUINAS: Outside the city on the south side stands this sign showing the distance to nearby places.

COPAN RUINAS: Some of the streets in this hilly town are so steep few ordinary cars would be able to climb them. See the same street from the other end in the next photo.

COPAN RUINAS: This is the other end of the street shown in the previous picture. Obviously, few vehicles attempt to climb this "cliff."

COPAN RUINAS: Inside the Mercado Central behind the west side of the plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: Some of the unusual plants used to landscape the central plaza, Parque Central.

COPAN RUINAS: Many of the older structures are constructed of adobe bricks like this one.

COPAN RUINAS: I captured this picture as a reminder to mention all of the evangelical activity that has been focused on Central America by American Bible belt denominations.

COPAN RUINAS: Religious decorations on one of the public buses. This sort of "advertising" is not uncommon here.

COPAN RUINAS: Hanging foot bridge across a river near the El Jaral water park and "mall."

COPAN RUINAS: Even Honduras has its share of happy chickens selling their cooked brothers and sisters.

8 August 2005

Bienvenidos from the Mayan ruins of Copan Honduras,

Copan Ruinas is a comfortable three hour ride down good roads from San Pedro Sula. I saw little traffic in either lane during our mid-day trip. The Hedman Alas super deluxe bus passed through some of the most continuously green parts of this world I have ever enjoyed. It seems like everything is shrouded in green here; jungles, pastures, gardens, some parts of the highway pass through leafy tunnels of green. Along the way gauchos in cowboy style hats with their horses made me think of the American old west. Most men carry machetes; some carry pistols. The machetes are used for everything, but defense. Lawns are ¨mowed¨ with them; fire wood is cut with them; nails are pounded with them; structures are built with them, heavy loads are carried with them and they make it easy to tell the men from the women who rarely carry them.

We arrived on the outskirts of Copan shortly after lunchtime and I immediately started my exploration of the city which in this case sits on the side of a steep hill about half a kilometer from the bus terminal. Dogs lazed about and men walked their horses or trudged up the hill slowly carrying loads of firewood cut with those long machetes hanging from their belts. In all of my nine days in Copan Ruinas only once did I hear a dog bark and then only briefly. That took me back to my days in Africa where dogs don't bark either.

Colorful butterflies flit from one place to another; reds, yellows, strips, iridescent greens and violet, blacks, beautiful. I must wonder if the mosquitoes harass the butterflies as much as they do tourists. That would explains their erratic flight behavior. There sure are a lot of mosquitoes here. I have been bitten as many as ten times in one day. The cyber cafes are the worst as my attention is focused on work and the little sneaks have time to dig in before arousing my awareness that something is amiss.

Other than the armed uniformed national police who hang around the central plaza and the private security guards hired by the banks, I have seen very little in the way of security personnel anywhere in or around town. This little tourist town has a deserved reputation for being very safe for foreign visitors. People on the street always smile, greeting strangers either in Spanish or English and they good naturedly return my greetings delivered in broken Spanish. While there are a few automobile taxis around town, most people use the ubiquitous Mototaxis, little three wheel motorbikes with covered passenger compartments seating three tightly packed teenagers plus someone sharing the driver's seat in a pinch. The fare is 10 Lempiras per person from anywhere to anywhere, as long as you are willing to occasionally tolerate being packed like sardines in the cramped enclosure. No ride is more than a few minutes in duration, so for fifty cents no one complains.

I am really enjoying this old Spanish colonial town and the totally wonderful deluxe hotel I found. Why it is named Hotel Marina Copan I never learned; there certainly is no large body of water nearby. At this time of year the river is shallow enough to wade across, though I did see fishermen out in the middle casting nets with the water up to their chests. At first quoted the rack rate of $75 plus tax, I asked about promotional rates and the assistant manager, Miguel noted he could drop the rate to $51 if I were going to stay a week or more. Though I wouldn´t guarantee such a long stay, he still gave me the lower rate... and after my less than enthusiastic first night in the dark dungeon of an authentically old colonial room I'd initially been assigned, he upgraded me to one of the modern rooms in the hotel's newest structure. It pays to ask. When I went to check out nine days later I learned he had further reduced my daily rate to $45!

The best restaurant in town clearly is the one in the hotel; air conditioned, modern, with a full range of excellent food from typical Honduran to familiar Western. My first morning I chose Huevo Marinita (Mama´s recipe): homemade tomato sauce over fried egg, ham slice, tortilla, cheese with a large glass of freshly squeezed orange juice and some of the country's excellent coffee, all for about $4.

After a few days of getting oriented and locating the cyber cafes, I finally made the short hike over to the archaeological park. The grass along the kilometer long flagstone foot path had recently been cut and the smell mingled with the odors of farm animals. New mowed grass smells a bit different here... more vegetable, earthy. At several places fence posts have taken root and sprouted new growth, some having done so long ago are now full grown trees. I now suspect the long rows of trees I saw on distant hills coming down from San Pedro Sula may have started off as mere fence posts delineating property lines many years ago.

Copan Ruinas displays an amazing record of the ancient Mayan culture and society. The sculpture museum near the entrance to the ruins is being renovated so is closed to visitors at the moment. The $10 entrance fee includes free admission to a second site a mile down the road: Las Sepulturas, which seems to be the ruins of a residential area for the Mayan elite in ancient Copan. Less well developed, in many ways it is a more authentic indication of the actual antiquity. Lush vegetation creates pleasant shady paths connecting the several collections of partially excavated ruins. It also creates a perfect habitat for swarms of aggressive mosquitoes, many of which showed me how much they enjoyed my visit. While swatting mosquitoes and watching a kaleidoscope of butterfly formations, a pair of birds on opposite sides of a grassy clearing performed a perfectly harmonized and syncopated duet lasting at least five minutes. For a brief period I believed the beautiful jungle concert to be the work of human musicians. Entranced by the rain forest ballet I overlooked another performance at my feet for a while. An unusual plant locally called "Sarsa" shyly retreats when anything makes contact with it's feathery leaves. Sometimes called Telegraph Plant or Sleeping Grass, the botanical name is Mimosa pudica. Crouching near one lush growth I experimented with various ways of getting leaves to demonstrate their extraordinary capabilities while an armed park guard in the distance looked on with amusement.

Aside from small cramped "mom and pop" general stores stocked with Pepsi, Snickers and hand soap demanded by the tourists, there is little in the way of shopping in Copan Ruinas. What clothing stores I found seemed to anticipate the needs of foreign souvenir hunters. Nothing like a super market or shopping mall exists here. Even the central Mercado is scaled to a small rural village. Needless to say, one doesn't visit Copan for the fashion shopping.

So, with some interest I learned of a shopping mall a mere eight kilometers back down the road towards San Pedro Sula. A city bus got me to the intermediate village of Santa Rita where I hopped off to walk the remaining 2km to the El Jaral Water Park and "shopping mall." The 2km turned out to be more like 5km along the nearly deserted highway following the river and the shopping mall turned out to be a metal roofed warehouse containing six shops selling bathing suits and souvenirs... half of them closed and two refreshment stands where the girls spent all their time chatting with one another.

Desperate for the sight of real civilization I grabbed one of the converted American school buses heading to La Entrada de Copבn some 45 minutes further down the road and wandered around this small city for an hour before lunch in a home grown fast food joint. Pointing at potato salad, bottled Coke and what looked like sausage links I hunkered down to enjoy my lunch... of potato salad, Coca Cola and... dark brown grilled spicy bananas! The meatless repast surprisingly satisfied my acute hunger and underscored the need to learn more Spanish.

Having finished the Alexander Dumas classic Ange Pitou, I selected a short story by Herman Melville, Bartleby the Scrivener. It is classic Mellville in the language of Moby Dick about a document copier (scrivener) employed by an attorney during the 1700's before the advent of typewriters. A strange story about a strange character. I'm pondering my list of books stored on the iPAQ for a next read.

Peace,
Fred L Bellomy

COPAN RUINAS: The path to the ruins meanders along 400 meters through a lovely landscaped jungle setting, finally arriving at the gate manned by armed national police personnel. Wild parrots help watch the entrance gate.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Mosquito ally through the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Mosquito ally through the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

COPAN RUINAS: This is the paved foot path that connects the town to the archaeological park about a mile away... a very pleasant stroll through green pastures and shady trees.

COPAN RUINAS: Along the paved foot path there are several estela like this as well as many unexcavated mounds covering more ruins.

COPAN RUINAS: This is the paved foot path that connects the town to the archaeological park about a mile away... a very pleasant stroll through green pastures and shady trees.

COPAN RUINAS: This is the paved foot path that connects the town to the archaeological park about a mile away... a very pleasant stroll through green pastures and shady trees. One of the others using the path.

COPAN RUINAS: Information posted near the entrance.

COPAN RUINAS: Road sign announcing the archaeological park.

COPAN RUINAS: Road sign announcing the archaeological park headquarters.

COPAN RUINAS: Display of things being offered by vendors at the entrance to the archaeological park.

COPAN RUINAS: Miniature display of the layout of the ruins. It is located near the ticket sellers booth. Another angle.

COPAN RUINAS: Map showing the locations of mayan ruins throughout Central America.

COPAN RUINAS: That round object is an alter on which victims were sacrificed. Note the spiral channels for draining the blood! One of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: Group of sculptures and stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: Altar G1 in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: This stone sculpture workshop sits across the street from the entrance to the main archaeological park. Here we see some of the finished works for sale.

COPAN RUINAS: Continuation of the street that runs along the west side of the plaza and the one on which the entrance to the Hotel Marina Copan is located. This block is the main commercial area for tourists and always has sidewalk vendors selling crafts.

COPAN RUINAS: This is the street that runs along the east side of the plaza. Here too we have sidewalk vendors selling crafts. Notice the cobblestone road paving used throughout the town.

COPAN RUINAS: I am not sure what this group is all about, but about twenty teenagers wearing Superman shirts spent time in town during my stay.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the sculptures in the central Plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: Sculpture from the near-by ruins on display in the Copan Archaeological Museum in the Parque Central.

COPAN RUINAS: Reproduction of a painting from the near-by ruins on display in the Copan Archaeological Museum in the Parque Central.

COPAN RUINAS: Design in the paving in the central Plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: Entrance to the Hotel Marina Copan, easily the best hotel in town. Most of the rooms give guests the feeling they have stepped back into colonial times. In the new building everything is up to date and modern, except the tile floors.

COPAN RUINAS: The pool area from my table in the restaurant at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: Another view of the landscaping around the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the gorgeous floral displays at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: A view of a landscaped area at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: Half of the paved streets in town are so steep one needs four wheel drive to make the grade.

COPAN RUINAS: Young husky wood cutters on their way home. Notice the machete. Most men carry them.

COPAN RUINAS: Close up of SARSA plants growing outside town. The leaves when touched, shrivel up.

COPAN RUINAS: Outside the city looking northwest toward the center of town.

COPAN RUINAS: Many of the streets away from the central district remain unpaved like this one. Some in this hilly town are so steep few ordinary cars would be able to climb them.

COPAN RUINAS: Road sign announcing the water park, El Jaral.

COPAN RUINAS: Hanging foot bridge across a river near the El Jaral water park and "mall."

COPAN RUINAS: In the city proper there is nothing remotely resembling a modern shopping shopping area. So, my ears perked up when I heard rumors of a "shopping mall" not more than 8km from town, El Jaral. This is it! A water park with an adjacent "mall" containing six shops catering to the interests of tourists... half of them closed, and two refreshment stands where the girls spent all their time chatting with one another, ignoring the lone potential customer in the building.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Details of one of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Highway sign near the entrance to the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Sign along the foot path near the entrance to the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: The foot path near the entrance to the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: The foot path through the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Some places are out of bounds in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Security guard watching tourists at the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Author in front of a structure in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Mosquito ally through the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: One of the structures in the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

Coppan Ruinas Honduras: Security guard watching tourists at the Las Sepulturas archaeological ruins area.

COPAN RUINAS: Police checkpoint along the road and foot path leading to the archaeological park. Police stopped all cars except for the recognized regulars.

COPAN RUINAS: Along the paved foot path that connects the town to the archaeological park about a mile away I enjoyed a very pleasant stroll through green pastures and shady trees like this.

COPAN RUINAS: This area of the world is so furtile even fence posts take root and grow. During bus rides I saw long rows of trees I assumed had been planted on property lines. In fact, they may have been fence posts that sprouted.

COPAN RUINAS: Along the paved foot path there are several estela like this as well as many unexcavated mounds covering more ruins.

COPAN RUINAS: Miniature display of the layout of the ruins. It is located near the ticket sellers booth. Another angle.

COPAN RUINAS: The landscaped path begins immediately outside the entrance building.

COPAN RUINAS: This is what the archaeologists saw over much of the area when they first arrived.

COPAN RUINAS: The path to the ruins meanders along 400 meters through a lovely landscaped jungle setting, finally arriving at the gate where these wild parrots watch the ticket takers.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: Details of one of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: Details of a stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the major stelae in the main section of Copan Ruinas.

COPAN RUINAS: Some guy wanted a photo to prove he had actually been here.

COPAN RUINAS: This is one of the flock of MOTOTAXIS that wait for passengers returning to hotels in the town. Fare is usually 10 Lempiras to anywhere in town.

COPAN RUINAS: This stone sculpture workshop sits across the street from the entrance to the main archaeological park. Here we see one of the artists at work.

COPAN RUINAS: This stone sculpture workshop sits across the street from the entrance to the main archaeological park. Here we see some of the finished works for sale.

COPAN RUINAS: Two cute kids watched me taking photos, so I took one of them.

COPAN RUINAS: This is the street that runs along the east side of the plaza. Here too we have sidewalk vendors selling crafts. Notice the cobblestone road paving used throughout the town.

COPAN RUINAS: This kid got curious so I shot him... he survived the assult.

COPAN RUINAS: Armed National Policeman guards the central Plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: Design in the paving in the central Plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: The Copan Archaeological Museum sits on the west side of the central plaza. This large stelae has been brought to the museum from the ruins for safe keeping.

COPAN RUINAS: Sculpture from the near-by ruins on display in the Copan Archaeological Museum in the Parque Central.

COPAN RUINAS: The Copan Cathedral sits along the eastern side of the central plaza, Parque Central.

COPAN RUINAS: This reproduction of a bas relief found in the nearby ruins decorates one of the hotels near the plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: A view of the pool area at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: My first lunch in the restaurant at the Hotel Marina Copan. This is the Ensalada de Pollo Tropical, a delicious combination of pineapple chunks, chicken pieces, mushrooms in a slightly sweet dressing and served in the pineapple shell.

COPAN RUINAS: Another of the gorgeous floral displays at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: A view of a landscaped area at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: A view of the pool area at the Hotel Marina Copan.

COPAN RUINAS: Entrance to one of the other better value air conditioned hotels in town, the Hotel Acropolis Maya.

COPAN RUINAS: One of the more popular restaurants in town favored by the backpacker crowd... and beer drinking smokers!

COPAN RUINAS: South of town near the Hedman Alas bus terminal is one of the coffee plantations. Here we can see some of the green coffee beans ripening.

COPAN RUINAS: Low rent district in the main city cemetery.

COPAN RUINAS: Another close up of SARSA plants growing outside town. The leaves when touched, shrivel up.

COPAN RUINAS: Interresting flowers(?) growing wild around town.

COPAN RUINAS: Inside the Mercado Central behind the west side of the plaza.

COPAN RUINAS: Some of the unusual plants used to landscape the central plaza, Parque Central.

COPAN RUINAS: Sign over a kitchen that makes pupusas, those five inch diameter thick corn meal patties.

COPAN RUINAS: young girls with babies like this one are common sights throughout all of Central America. It is easy to see why the region has one of the highest birth rates in the world.

COPAN RUINAS: Road sign announcing the "big" modern shopping mall, El Jaral. A water park with an adjacent building containing six shops catering to the interests of tourists... half of them closed. Two refreshment stands where the girls spent all their time chatting with one another, ignoring the lone potential customer in the building.

COPAN RUINAS: Hanging foot bridge across a river near the El Jaral water park and "mall." I stepped out on the unstable boards and decided to fore go a crossing experience.

Copan Ruinas: A bus ready to leave the Hedman Alas bus terminal.

Copan Ruinas: Another shot of the lush landscaping around the grounds of the Hotel Marina Copan.

Copan Ruinas: A bunch of cowboys getting ready for work near the Hedman Alas bus terminal.