25 December 2006 

 

Holiday Greetings from Siam Reap,

 

Siam Reap is the gateway to the fabulous ruins of Angkor Wat. This is my second visit, the first being back in 2002. I took so many photographs this time I've decided to break up the presentation into several web pages... as well as providing access to my Kodakgallery albums which display the photos as a full screen slide show.

After leaving Kolkata India, Bangkok provided a three week refuge from the Indian misadventure. Eventually, the new 30 day Thailand visa again approached expiration and I jumped over to Cambodia for a return visit to the fabulous Angkor Wat archaeological park previously visited some four years earlier. I love ruins.

 

Today is Christmas and despite the presence of very few Christians in the country, music and decorations insure American visitors will not be deprived of the holiday spirit. My hotel has an elaborately decorated ten foot tall tree in the lobby and traditional Christmas music is piped into all public areas of the hotel every morning and evening. I think they only have one XMas CD as the selections often repeat... though I suspect few of the indigenous folk notice - most speak only Khmer. Around the hotels one hears plenty of English, however. Parents must teach newborns "hello papa" as their first words. Tiny tots commonly stare and pronounce the greeting, awkwardly managing feeble hand gestures resembling a "wave bye-bye." On the streets I am never far from someone yelling: "Sir! Want Tuktuk?" This is the high season, but there must be at least ten times as many of these motorcycle pulled carts as are needed by tourists and drivers are anxious to find someone willing to pay $10 for a full day of their services. Most foreign visitors arrive with a package tour which provides deluxe air conditioned buses. It is only the young backpackers and other intrepid solo travelers like me that must make independent arrangements. The manager of my four star $70 Somadevi Angkor Hotel, Ms. Revira says she rarely sees independent travelers in her hotel. So unusual is my presence she invited me to be her guest at the lavish Christmas eve party around the pool last night. So much for my lackadaisical efforts to stay on a diet!

 

Today I again walked-climbed the extensively restored ruins of the vast Angkor Wat archaeological park. Hindus built the temples during a period spanning four centuries. Starting around 800CE a series of powerful rulers undertook massive building campaigns rivaling those of the Egyptians or the First Emperor of China. The dominant religion of the region shifted back and forth between Hinduism and Buddhism. Originally created as Hindu temples, the Buddhists co-opted the structures and added their own statues of revered monks and the Buddha... only to have most of them destroyed or defaced by later Hindu conquerors. Today, broken relics of grander times are protected by orange robed Buddhist monks and white clad nuns. Here and there throughout the monument statues are draped in orange, yellow and gold cloth, burning incense nearby adds to the exotic atmosphere and is a reminder that this is first and foremost a spiritual place for many. Spending a major Christian holiday walking Hindu temples in a predominantly Buddhist country is a heady experience.

 

The ancient architects liked steep inclines and tall structures so some of the stairs to the top of the tallest temples have steps ascending at a 70 degree angle. Many of the steps are less than six inches deep and rise 18 inches each step. On my last climb and descent I suffered a lactic acid attack and my leg muscles threatened to collapse. Needless to say, I slowed the pace down the steep incline and steadied myself with precarious handholds along the occasional wall edges. It is now 36 hours later and it still hurts to stand up! The tuktuk wagon bounced along the uneven roads between temples spanking me all the while. Last night crawling into bed became a test of my ability to tolerate pain as I must surely have badly bruised the tailbone judging by the tenderness.

 

I trust that your holidays are full of joy and that you can look forward to a happy and eventful new year.

Peace

Fred L Bellomy

 

 

SIAM REAP: Replica of a sculpture found at Angkor Wat as seen on a wall of the five star Grand Hotel D'Angkor not far from my hotel.

 

 
SIAM REAP: Sculpture of the mythical seven headed serpent near the entrance to the $70 Somadevi Hotel where I stayed during my first six days in the city.

SIAM REAP: Christmas is celebrated at the $70 Somadevi Hotel where I stayed during my first six days in the city.

SIAM REAP: Mural in the lobby of the $70 Somadevi Hotel where I stayed during my first six days in the city.

SIAM REAP: Diagram showing the layout of the Lotus Garden which sits right across the street from the five star Grand Hotel D'Angkor and not far from my hotel.

SIAM REAP: The Royal Decree establishing the Siem Reap/Angkor Region.

SIAM REAP: This restaurant's sign suggests other eateries do serve such exotic dishes and makes me wonder what was in the "beef" stew I had last night! I've had this uncontrollable urge to scratch behind my ear this morning.

SIAM REAP: Portion of the recreation of Angkor Wat as it would have looked soon after construction many centuries ago. The actual ruins fail to do justice to the remarkable accomplishments of the ancients.

SIAM REAP: Portion of the recreation of Angkor Wat as it would have looked soon after construction many centuries ago. Notice the exquisite detail.

SIAM REAP: Portion of the recreation of Angkor Wat as it would have looked soon after construction many centuries ago. Astounding.

SIAM REAP: Bas relief sculpture on the wall around the Angkorland Hotel.

SIAM REAP: Details of the bas relief sculpture on the wall around the Angkorland Hotel.

SIAM REAP: Realistic sculpture of mother elephant and her baby as seen along the green strip by the road out to the ruins.

SIAM REAP: Posted map of Angkor Wat ruins.

SIAM REAP: Musicians entertain guests in the lobby of the five star Grand Hotel D'Angkor with traditional instruments. The fellow plays a khimm tauch (high-pitched hammered dulcimer) and the gal a Roneat Thung (Large xylophone).

SIAM REAP: Houses on stilts along the creek line the dirt road leading out to the lake.

SIAM REAP: There is a lot of activity along the dirt road leading out to the lake.

SIAM REAP: There is a lot of activity along the dirt road leading out to the lake, like these little kids hoping for a handout from the flood of foreign tourists.

SIAM REAP: Quickly diverted, these cute kids rush off to the next batch of foreign tourists paying attention to them.

SIAM REAP: Finally the dirt road leading out to the lake ends at an area of makeshift docks where all the lake tours start.

See all five photo albums for Angkor Wat: Siem Reap - Ruins First day - Ruins Second Day Ruins Third day - Aranyaprathet border town

More photos from my earlier visit in 2002.

 

 

END

 

 

 

SIAM REAP: Sculpture over the entrance to one of the hotels near the Lotus Gardens.

SIAM REAP: Sculpture at the side of the entrance to one of the hotels near the Lotus Gardens.

SIAM REAP: Sculpture over the entrance to one of the hotels near the Lotus Gardens.

SIAM REAP: One of the sculptures near an entrance to the Lotus Garden not far from my hotels near the center of the city.

SIAM REAP: Christmas is celebrated at the $70 Somadevi Hotel where I stayed during my first six days in the city.

SIAM REAP: Sculpture of the mythical seven headed serpent near the entrance to the $70 Somadevi Hotel where I stayed during my first six days in the city.

SIAM REAP: Plaque marking one of the entrances to the Lotus Garden not far from my hotels near the center of the city.

SIAM REAP: This feathery tree caught my attention in the Lotus Garden not far from my hotels near the center of the city.

SIAM REAP: I enjoyed a very quiet walk through the Lotus Garden not far from my hotels near the center of the city. This sign explains the absence of noise pollution.

SIAM REAP: This feathery tree in the Lotus Garden caught my attention.

SIAM REAP: Replica of a sculpture found at Angkor Wat sitting on the grounds of the five star Grand Hotel D'Angkor not far from my hotel.

SIAM REAP: This is the manager of the  Somadevi Hotel where I stayed during my first six days in the city. Seeing I had no plans for Christmas Eve, she invited me to be her guest at the staff Christmas party.

SIAM REAP: Gasoline station for motorcycles. These impromptu service stops are found all over the city.

SIAM REAP: Here comes another customer. Impromptu service stations are found all over the city.

SIAM REAP: Yum. Bugs for sale at a roadside stand. Yes, people actually eat these things.

SIAM REAP: Live bats for sale at a roadside stand. Yes, people actually eat these, too.

SIAM REAP: Fresh coconuts for sale at a roadside stand. Finally something I might consider as real food.

SIAM REAP: Devotional floral offerings for sale to pilgrims.

SIAM REAP: At this Buddhist shrine several beggars ply their trade. Why do they congregate at religious shrines? Are religious people more likely to be sympathetic to their plight?

SIAM REAP: Sculpture in the courtyard of a restaurant I enjoyed several times not far from my main hotel.

SIAM REAP: Sculpture in bas relief on the wall of a building near my hotel.

SIAM REAP: Wood carving sculpture in bas relief on the wall of a building near my hotel.

SIAM REAP: Leaving the main highway where the recreation of Angkor Wat was seen I start my hike of the back roads from the city out to the Archaeological Park.

SIAM REAP: Leaving the main highway where the recreation of Angkor Wat was seen I start my hike of the back roads from the city out to the Archaeological Park.

SIAM REAP: Leaving the main highway where the recreation of Angkor Wat was seen I start my hike of the back roads from the city out to the Archaeological Park. This mansion looks out of place in the middle of open fields.

SIAM REAP: Leaving the main highway where the recreation of Angkor Wat was seen I start my hike of the back roads from the city out to the Archaeological Park. Most of the back roads look like this one.

SIAM REAP: During several of my walks out into the countryside I ran into fields marked with landmine warnings, some of which also noted clearance operations ongoing.

SIAM REAP: During several of my walks out into the countryside I ran into fields marked with landmine warnings, some of which also noted clearance operations ongoing... like this one.

SIAM REAP: During several of my walks out into the countryside I ran into fields marked with landmine warnings, some of which also noted clearance operations ongoing... and this one.

SIAM REAP: This well worn path runs right through a partially cleared mine field. I decided to make a conscious effort to stay on the path!

SIAM REAP: Houses on stilts along the creek line the dirt road leading out to the lake.

SIAM REAP: Houses on stilts along the creek line the dirt road leading out to the lake.

SIAM REAP: There are  boats and tours to be had, but this hammock suggests not all hands are anxious for work.

SIAM REAP: Foreign grandmothers are an easy touch for the begging kids and every time a tour bus parks for the lake trips the kids form a mob.

SIAM REAP: This picture shows how low the lake is right now  in the middle of the Winter.

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