Postcards from:
|
Greetings from Tianjin
After five days in the Beijing Holiday Inn Express and tolerating the cramped room and lobby Internet terminals monopolized by kids playing games, I searched for more appropriate accommodations to sit out the 30 days until my DPRK trip. Finding nothing better in Beijing near the Koryo Tours offices, I searched elsewhere.
Tianjin is a city of about fifteen million built around the
meandering
Haihe
River about one hundred and twenty kilometers southeast
of Beijing. Known to some as the
Water City,
information available on the Internet made it look like
an
interesting
place to explore. The high speed
"bullet" train makes the trip in about a half hour,
arriving at the ultra-modern
Tianjin terminal conveniently located with one of the
subway stations.
The short trip felt like being on an airline... complete
with attentive stewardesses selling refreshments; a big
bottle of Pepsi set me back one dollar... I expected to pay
a lot more. Internet access in the hotel is generally reliable, but still hampered by the Google - PRC government censorship war... and frequently degraded bandwidth. Limited bandwidth means pages loaded with extravagant advertising features come up very slowly! With Gmail unavailable, I am using Hotmail again while here in China and that seems to be working fairly well. After much experimentation I finally re-discovered how to use the file transfer utility on my Galaxy Note smart phone and can once again get the photographs over to the laptop for inclusion in new web pages. The Dropbox application is much more convenient as everything is handled automatically, but until I leave China this other tactic will work nicely. As I had previously signed up for Microsoft's automatic free Windows 10 upgrade, my Asus T100 Windows 8 became the new version on 11 August and proceeded without any complications, taking less than an hour. Only miner relearning has been required and that mostly obvious from the new logical screen layouts. A problem with the Asus touchpad corrected itself transparently, making touch typing now problem free. On one of my first walks around Tianjin I found a small shopping complex containing a Wal-Mart! Many small homegrown, copycat fast food restaurants are found in the vicinity, including one called Yankee King. Cookie cutter high-rise apartment structures dominate the architectural scene, but there are many different basic floor plan designs. I'll continue vegetating here in Tianjin until time to return to Beijing for the DPRK trip. I like what I've seen so far and there are many interesting areas to explore on foot with convenient bus and subway access to all parts of the city. There are so many bus routes crisscrossing the city it is hard to keep track of them all. The day before my first night in the city I walked 16,000 steps looking for the southern Beijing high-speed railway station with trains for Tianjin ... so much tramping while carrying a heavy backpack ended with sore shoulders from the straps digging in plus both feet screaming, but no new blisters. The acoustic ambiance in the city is unique. Gone are all the noisy motorcycles and TukTuks; almost everything moving is now battery powered, except the buses and many of those use LNG. Music is almost entirely Western, albeit in Chinese. Vendors personally touting their wares have been replaced by small electronic announcement devices that repeat an advertising message endlessly, and irritatingly! Smog is terrible in cities all over China including here. A website provides current pollution readings for any location in the world: see the Tianjin Page. Checking the readings for Las Vegas I discovered pollution in my home town is not so bad. 7 August 2015: After twelve totally enjoyable nights in the truly excellent Radisson Blu Hotel I decided to move to a place nearer the central business district. The Golden Crown Hotel is one of the city's other landmarks. Tall and gold, it can be spotted for quite some distance away. More importantly, there are a number of interesting places to explore in the immediate vicinity of this glittering tower, including several shopping malls and Western fast food franchises like KFC and McDonalds. My immediate impression during the Golden Crown Hotel check-in is that staff have not received enough guest relations training for an international five star hotel. The physical plant itself is perfection... easily worth the assigned five stars. Only a few staff have any English language skills and appear reluctant to use them, making interactions awkward. I met the manager, Mr. Xu Jun during a pre-booking inspection of the hotel and he does have a reasonably good command of English. A young man in his early 30's, this hotel may be taxing his current abilities. With my anticipated two weeks or more stay, he approved a room upgrade to "Deluxe" for the 500RMB (about $81) rate. My 16th floor room facing south is deluxe in every way; perfect. The comfortable bed is king-size and the lavish bathroom is fit for a king. The separate shower stall is the best I've enjoyed on this current expedition. After that great first night in the room I eagerly anticipated my first buffet breakfast in the tastefully appointed third floor dining room. Immediately, I noticed the appropriately soft background music chosen for diners. However, distracted and inattentive dining room staff made that experience soon feel like being in a bus station cafeteria, albeit with an ample offering of imaginative breakfast dishes including a small selection of local specialties. Coffee is by request only... begging, really. The hotel's Food and Beverage operation needs a serious management review. Typhoon Soudelor crept up the east coast of China toward Tianjin last week, but changed course before getting anywhere near Tianjin. The devastation where it made landfall looks terrible, so I'm glad it decided to head away from the mainland (over toward South Korea). FLASH! Just before midnight last night (12 Aug) as I slept, a loud noise woke me in my sixteenth floor Golden Crown Hotel room. Still groggy, I went back to sleep. At 06:00 this morning I finally awoke fully and turned on CNN where breaking news flashed "Tianjin," my present location in China! A reporter using Skype managed to provide several short segments of live video before being forcibly stopped by state security agents jostling him and yelling in Chinese: "No reporters! No reporters!" According to several news reports the authorities have declared Marshall Law in the immediate vicinity of the blasts near the waterfront, quite some distance to the east from the central business district where I'm located. Early reports say hundreds are injured with more than a dozen dead, but press censorship is limiting what news is being made available to the public here in China. Hospitals throughout the city of about fifteen million are all treating the injured. My 16th floor hotel room faces south and looking eastward I can see nothing unusual at 07:00. However, it is a VERY smoggy morning. A day later multiple smoke plumes appeared in the distance to the southeast and news reports of the rising number of dead and injured continued to demonstrate the horrendous dimensions of this disaster. In thinking about press censorship in the wake of a terrorist attack it occurs to me that because one of the main objectives of terrorism is to focus attention on some perceived wrong the adversary feels powerless to overcome, it almost always achieves that objective. Government censorship denies the terrorist that advantage. The Chinese censorship policies may be more rational than Westerners are willing to concede. The Rule Of Law is another matter. Way too many people here ignore sensible laws on the streets, making me suspect the culture has evolved a general attitude of "me first" without regard for the rights of others. For example: from my eighteenth floor hotel room vantage, on several occasions I have witnessed emergency vehicles, sirens blearing, inching foreward as they approach an intersection while drivers fail to yield the right of way! Or, consider the subway situation where car doors have signs to manage the entry and exit rush, but people waiting to get on the cars commonly push into the wall of passengers waiting to get off, knocking them aside aggressively in their thoughtless determination to find an unoccupied seat inside. The Ugly American of the previous century has become the Ugly Chinese. How did Chinese adults learn to be so thoughtless? I now recall the boisterous, unruly, swaggering behavior of children running around the dining-rooms in all three of the deluxe hotels I've used in Beijing and here. Frequently, kids treat the five star hotel environs like an outdoors playground; mindlessly bumping into tables and shouting at their playmates, seemingly oblivious of the adult diners trying to enjoy a peaceful breakfast. Is it possible the current Chinese culture fostered by the Communist Party has encouraged parents to teach their children: "Might makes right?" If so, what does this bode for the future of a Chinese superpower looming on the horizon? While exploring the CBD area I found the Tianjin People's Park and took a stroll around the inner perimeter. Making the exotic experience even more memorable, I stumbled on a group of four old guys in tank tops and shorts making music with their two string Erhu fiddle-like instruments while another of their group wailed away in that strange voice associated with ancient, traditional Chinese folk music. People's Park contains a collection of small gardens mingled among the islands in a man-made lake; quite lovely, as the many photos displayed on this page confirm. My Caucasian features still attract constant attention on the street, especially from children. A handful of encounters with other elderly bystanders has led to "conversations" about age. The Chinese use a unique set of finger gestures to denote numbers. My eight fingers followed by one has created confusion and then a flurry of finger responses from Chinese guys. Finally, I checked to see what their hand talk meant; actually pretty logical once you get the hang of it. Speaking of gestures, I've discovered how to use my fishtailing palm to indicate I'd like a fish dish in restaurants. I always get a seafood... with smiles all around. Selecting items from the overhead menu display in fast food restaurants is a problem as the people behind the counter have a hard time telling exactly where I am pointing... especially when the display contains a several items spaced close together. It occurred to me a laser pointer would solve the problem nicely... but I left mine at home this trip. 22 August: Back to Beijing for a few days before the North Korea trip starts on the 25th. I returned from Tianjin to start the DPRK tour preparation the next day, with the flight scheduled for 25 August into the DPRK. I prebooked one night in the Riverview Hotel near the Koryo Tour offices based on glowing descriptions found on the Internet. Unfortunately, this house did not come anywhere close to matching the quality I expected from the Agoda description. The "river view" actually is a block of aging apartment buildings and the stained carpets badly need cleaning. The odd TV setup had no English language channels after a convoluted guest setup process and then the inaudible sound could not be adjusted! The plank bed with a thin pad is just what is prescribed for Buddhist monks, so I considered it a mixed blessing. All of the staff I encountered have been more than friendly. Fortunately, on my first walk I discovered the nearby, recently opened five star BaiFuYi Hotel and negotiated a not unreasonable 600RMB room rate for my next two nights before the DPRK departure on 25 August. This postcard likely will be the last one until I return from my DPRK visit. I do not expect to have Internet access while on that short four night tour.
Peace,
Fred L. Bellomy
Tianjin China: This is the Tianjin Radisson Blu Hotel where I stayed most of the time while in the city. The odd exterior of the building made it easy to find returning on buses or foot.
|
|
Reference photo:
author August 2015 |