Cochabamba Bolivia
Up Sucre Bolivia
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California planning
La Paz Bolivia
Camino de la Muerte
Trinidad Bolivia
Santa Cruz Bolivia
Cochabamba Bolivia
Sucre Bolivia
Potosi Bolivia
Uyuni Bolivia
Tiwanaku Bolivia
Back Home in California

 


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. This delightful family talked with me for a while, everyone struggling with the others language. The boy on the left is studying English and spoke not a single word of it! His mother and sister managed quite a number of intelligible phrases and my amazingly improved Spanish made real communication on simple subjects possible.


Cochabamba: Cathedral on the south side of the Plaza Colon near my hotels.


Cochabamba: another memorial sculpture in the median that runs down Av. Ballivian near the Diplomat Hotel.


Cochabamba: Typical brightly painted bus used by Cochabambinos.


Cochabamba: The lavishly landscaped median down Avenida Bolivian across from the $54 four star Hotel Diplomat where I stayed the last days of my visit to this delightful city.


Cochabamba: This aggressive beggar works the stopped cars at the intersection next to the Hotel Diplomat. I watched for a while and about every fifth or sixth car she got a handout.


Cochabamba: Local bum? He just sat there looking disoriented... perhaps intoxicated.


Cochabamba: One sees this scene all over town. The modified wheelbarrow is moved like ones used by construction workers, but the rear wheels makes it easier for little old ladies to push around.


Cochabamba: Statue in the courtyard of a major church: obscene graffiti covered most of the columns in the area.


Cochabamba: Plaque beneath the statue in the courtyard of a major church: obscene graffiti covered most of the columns in the area.


Cochabamba: Statue in the courtyard of a major church: obscene graffiti like this covered most of the columns in the area.


Cochabamba: Entrance to the four star $54 Hotel Diplomat where I stayed the last few days in Cochabamba.


Cochabamba: Entrance to the four star $54 Hotel Diplomat where I stayed the last few days in Cochabamba.


Cochabamba: Entrance to the four star $54 Hotel Diplomat where I stayed the last few days in Cochabamba.


Cochabamba: Cathedral on the south side of the Plaza Colon near my hotels.


Cochabamba: Landscaping sculptures like this are popular in cities all over Bolivia.


Cochabamba: Looking toward the Christo de la Concordia statue high on the hills to the east from my room in the Hotel Diplomat.


Cochabamba: For starters, this heart of palm salad preceded the main course and desert during one of the menu del dia lunches served every week day at the Hotel Diplomat. Total cost with orange juice: $2.90.


Cochabamba: Sculpture across from the entrance to the four star $54 Hotel Diplomat where I stayed the last few days in Cochabamba.


Cochabamba: Entrance to my first hotel, the Ambassador.


Cochabamba: Entrance to my first hotel, the Ambassador.


Cochabamba: Hopeful Jacaranda lovers hang on one of the many trees around the city... they too will soon fall.


Cochabamba: Statue of a hero in one of the traffic circles north of the city center.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Here is a large selection of pastas.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Here is a large selection of corn and corn meals.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. This is one of the entrances to the sprawling market area.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: This is the cathedral sitting on the south side of the central plaza.


Cochabamba: This is the cathedral sitting on the south side of the central plaza.


Cochabamba: In the very center of the central plaza stands this monument commemorating the founding of the city.


Cochabamba: In the very center of the central plaza stands this monument commemorating the founding of the city.


Cochabamba: A portion of the mural covering one entire wall inside the city hall on the west side of the central plaza.


Cochabamba: A portion of the mural covering one entire wall inside the city hall on the west side of the central plaza.


Cochabamba: A portion of the mural covering one entire wall inside the city hall on the west side of the central plaza.


Cochabamba: A portion of the mural covering one entire wall inside the city hall on the west side of the central plaza.

 

2 October 2007

 

Greetings from Cochabamba Bolivia,

Dumping the contents of our oversize stockings "hung by the chimney with care" onto the carpet, my younger brother, sister and I stealthily rummaged through the booty Santa had brought good little California boys and girls in the early predawn hours of December 25th 1939. My earliest memories of "Brazil Nuts" were formed that morning. Our identical bulging Christmas stockings were so big my baby brother couldn't even lift his off the floor. Stuffed into the toe of each one an enormous and "expensive" Florida orange insured there would be plenty of room for the goodies piled above it. Every crevice created by the many little wrapped packages stuffed into the stockings were filled with nuts; filberts, almonds, walnuts... and Brazil Nuts.

My father surely must have been the inspiration for the Archie character in the wildly popular TV series, All in the Family. When our two sleepy eyed parents finally joined the three of us hysterically excited tots in the pine scented living-room still illuminated only by the Christmas Tree lights, they wanted to explain each and every item in our stockings while all we wanted to do was rip paper. Those are "nigger toes" my father announced as he fondled one of the polished shells of a Brazil Nut as if it were a rare gem.

With a pained grimace my mother glanced at him and chided: "Brazil Nuts," those are nuts from Brazil. For years I imagined black people as having hard brown triangular toes. As it turns out, both parents were wrong; my father for his habitually insensitive derogatory use of hurtful ethnic characterizations and my mother for her assumed origin of the unique nuts spilling from our gargantuan stockings.

While still labeled Brazil Nuts, the vast majority are grown and harvested in Bolivia. Street vendors not far from the hotel sell 100gm cellophane bags for 5 Bolivianos, or about $3/pound shelled. It came as a surprise to learn they only grow in the wilds of the western Amazon rain forest. The giant trees cannot be cultivated. The heavy softball size nut pods are collected where they fall around the widely scattered trees.

The short half hour flight from Santa Cruz arrived early afternoon in Cochabamba. An uncrowded city bus zipped to the commercial center in ten minutes. The four star $31 Ambassador Hotel is an excellent value, but hardly worth the four stars it claims. However, it had rooms (each complete with TWO tiny bathrooms) and the others I checked didn't. After three nights the truly four star $54 Diplomat Hotel finally became available and I moved over there for my last four nights in the city.

The Diplomat is a delight and the gourmet food they serve is an unbelievable bargain! It is difficult to spend more than $8 for even the most lavish steak dinner. During weekdays the dining room features a magnificent menu del dia for 21 Bolivianos. Soup, main course with vegetables, fruit juices plus a selection of rich deserts served from an elegant rolling tray, all for about $2.90!

My first lunch included one of Cochabamba's specialty dishes: Silpancho. Crisp potato-chip thin slices of fried potatoes are spread over a thin bed of rice. Then, a thin pancake made from some kind of pressed ground meat is laid over that: spicy, tough and chewy. Over this is sprinkled a colorful collection of spicy bits of various vegetables and garnished with tomato slices and one or two fried eggs: absolutely delicious... and beautiful. A glass of freshly squeezed orange juice and a slice of flan for desert completed one mini-feast. If I were to stay here much longer I surely would gain back what weight I've managed to lose.

From my room on the 11th floor I can see the much of the central city and it is high enough to mask the traffic noise below. Days have been filled with explorations on foot. Careful not to allow new blisters to form, I walk two or three hours everyday and nap often. The hotel has a room with three fast Internet terminals which I monopolize several hours each day.

Wandering the city one gets the impression streets are only there to interconnect the plazas and parks or to provide space for the flocks of street vendors. Where ever you go, you are not far from one of the pleasant green open spaces. The main plaza, Plaza 14 de la Septembre in the center of the city serves as a free speech area and became the focal point for the water riots of 2000 (An excellent film: Even the Rain uses the water protests as a backdrop). On one of my visits I watched as a young Jesus look-alike preached to a handful of devotees. His long black hair and benevolent expression complimented the dark blue robe he wore. He reminded me of a white robed fellow we had holding services in Santa Barbara parks for a few years until authorities discovered the sacrament he distributed was marijuana.

Tasteful landscape sculpturing is popular in this Bolivian city. The median down Aveneda Ballivian that runs by the hotel is especially well manicured adding to the pleasures of strolling sidewalks strewn with lavender flowers from Jacaranda trees blanketing the city. Security fences topped with ugly barbs surround many of the private homes and some enterprising owners have trained thorny Bougainvillea vines to run along the tops of the fences, both hiding the hideous spikes and adding another couple feet to the barrier's height.

Vendors set up shop where ever they please and add a colorful, noisy ambiance to the downtown area. On a couple side streets I watched as a scissor grinders plied their trade, something no longer seen in American cities since the mid-twentieth century. Indian women with their big hips, colorful dresses and bright bundles on their backs can be seen throughout the city begging. All the city's beggars seem to be these indigenous people making me wonder if they have some sort of beggars union in Bolivia. One evening while having dinner in a sidewalk cafe I watched one of the ladies working the pedestrians. To my surprise perhaps one in every three or four attempts for a handout were successful. With odds like that it is no wonder there are so many beggars. 

To the south of the central district an entire four block square area is set aside for the "market." Here one can find every imaginable commodity and I went wild snapping photos of anything that caught my fancy. Naturally, this attracted the attention of people here and there. When asked to show my tiny camera, I often managed to capture happy curious faces close up.

At one point I discovered my rudimentary command of Spanish more than adequate for an extended conversation with a mother and her two school age children, one of whom claimed to be studying English. They wanted to know where I came from and what work I did. I wanted to know about their family life. It turned out grandmother tended the adjacent stall selling jerked meats of various kinds. Mother and her kids were selling fresh produce and encouraged me to take their pictures; grandmother modestly demurred.

My next destination is the City of Four Names or Sucre, famous for its white colonial buildings and as the legislative capital of the country. As my ride to the airport leaves soon, I'll end this postcard.

Peace

Fred L Bellomy

 

 

 


Cochabamba: Obsessed by the unique artistry of this metal sculpture, I took many photos.


Cochabamba: From every angle this extraordinary work of art impressed me, so I took many photos.


Cochabamba: A political poster on display in the central plaza.


Cochabamba: Ghost rider in the wind racing to oblivion. I like it.


Cochabamba: Landscaping sculptures like this are popular in cities all over Bolivia.


Cochabamba: A street market like this can be found any day of the week along both main and back streets.


Cochabamba: A truly striking abstract painting hanging on the wall in the Burger-King near my second hotel.


Cochabamba: Entrance to the Hotel Portales, the only five star house near the center of the city. Five stars is a stretch.


Cochabamba: Obsessed by the unique artistry of this metal sculpture, I took many photos.


Cochabamba: Obsessed by the unique artistry of this metal sculpture, I took many photos.


Cochabamba: Obsessed by the unique artistry of this metal sculpture, I took many photos.


Cochabamba: Fallen Jacaranda lovers liter the ground under one of the many trees around the city.


Cochabamba: Fallen Jacaranda lovers liter the ground under one of the many trees around the city.


Cochabamba: Hopeful Jacaranda lovers hang on one of the many trees around the city... they too will soon fall.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Siesta time in the market area is observed only by the kids and dogs.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Here is one of the bakery outlets.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Lots of colorful shawls like these on display around the market.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. This street featured sellers of hats.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: The central plaza is full of pigeons eagerly pecking up the corn offered by the kids.


Cochabamba: In the very center of the central plaza stands this monument commemorating the founding of the city.


Cochabamba: The central plaza is full of pigeons eagerly pecking up the corn offered by the kids.


Cochabamba: Most benches in the central plaza are occupied much of the daylight hours.


Cochabamba: In the very center of the central plaza stands this monument commemorating the founding of the city.


Cochabamba: The central plaza is full of pigeons eagerly pecking up the corn offered by the kids.


Cochabamba: The central plaza is full of pigeons eagerly pecking up the corn offered by the kids.

 

 
END

 

 

 

 


Cochabamba: Enchanted by the unique artistry of this metal sculpture, I took many photos.


Cochabamba: The main course during one of the $2.75 menu del dia lunches served every weekday at the Hotel Diplomat was the city specialty, Silpancho... delicious.


Cochabamba: Bougainville vines serve double duty: adding several thorny feet to the tops of barbed wire security fences while adding beauty. I know about the thorns from many painful encounters while trimming a huge plant on my Santa Barbara Property.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Here is a colorful array of chilies.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. This little tot caught my attention and after a half dozen tries I managed this photo.


Cochabamba: The little tot in the previous photo caught my attention and after a half dozen tries I managed a photo. Mama and big sister found my efforts amusing and wanted to see the camera... SNAP, got 'cha.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Here is an example of offerings in the meats area.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Here is a colorful produce display, common throughout the market.


Cochabamba: Most benches in the central plaza are occupied much of the daylight hours.


Cochabamba: A street market like this can be found any day of the week along both main and back streets.


Cochabamba: A protest banner in the main Plaza 14 de Septembre. This plaza serves as the free speech area for the city. An entertainer worked one large crowd while a Jesus look-alike in a long dark blue gown preached to a small group of admirers, flipping through the open Bible he held.


Cochabamba: This Jesus look-alike in a long dark blue gown preached to a small group of admirers, flipping through the open Bible in his hands... very theatrical.


Cochabamba: Something seems to have amused the Jesus look-alike.


Cochabamba: Statue in the courtyard of a major church: obscene graffiti covered most of the columns in the area. I refrained from photographing most of the more prominent filth.


Cochabamba: Statue in the courtyard of a major church: obscene graffiti like this covered most of the columns in the area.


Cochabamba: Looking toward the Christo de la Concordia statue high on the hills to the east from my room in the Hotel Diplomat. (25 of 103)


Cochabamba: Looking south from my room in the Hotel Diplomat.


Cochabamba: Floral arrangement in the lobby of the four star $54 Hotel Diplomat where I stayed the last few days in Cochabamba.


Cochabamba: Statue at the entrance to the four star $54 Hotel Diplomat where I stayed the last few days in Cochabamba.


Cochabamba: Menu del dia at the Hotel Diplomat; note the 21 Bolivianos price... about $2.90 including drink and desert.


Cochabamba: Obsessed by the unique artistry of this metal sculpture, I took many photos.


Cochabamba: Obsessed by the unique artistry of this metal sculpture, I took many photos.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Here is a selection of dried meats... like jerky.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product including some very colorful blankets like these.


Cochabamba: Sunday market south of Aroma Street offers every imaginable product. Children play everywhere while their parents tend to business.


Cochabamba: The young scissor grinder at work in another part of town.


Cochabamba: The young scissor grinder at work in another part of town.


Cochabamba: The young scissor grinder at work in another part of town.


Cochabamba: Another scissor grinder examines his work.


Cochabamba: The central plaza serves as a free speech area as well as a place to relax and people watch... especially foreign people like me.


Cochabamba: This lovely wood carving sits in an obscure niche inside the city hall.


Cochabamba: Keep Walking Freddy Bellomy... always wanted to take this picture.

 

Reference photo: author
 August 2002
 

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