Tiwanaku Bolivia
Up California Again 2007
     
Postcards from:
California planning
La Paz Bolivia
Camino de la Muerte
Trinidad Bolivia
Santa Cruz Bolivia
Cochabamba Bolivia
Sucre Bolivia
Potosi Bolivia
Uyuni Bolivia
Tiwanaku Bolivia
Back Home in California

 

 

Need to reorganize photos & check captions.

 

 


Sign at the entrance to the museum


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Our guide, Ann tells us about the site before we leave the bus.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Entrance to the Archaeological park.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Entrance to the Archaeological park.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site by ancestors of the original builders.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Indigenous people have been recruited to do most of the archaeological work at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: This is a very large archaeological project.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Indigenous people distinguishable by their dress can be seen doing most of the archaeological work at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Symbol of the ancient cosmology.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Symbol of the ancient cosmology.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Stellas in the middle of the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Plaques with information about the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Plaques with information about the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the wall around the large open assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Entry gate into the large open assembly yard for humans.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: The largest standing gate remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: The largest standing gate remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: The guide insisted this particular flat rock had magic "energy" powers and many in our group had to test the energy themselves.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the largest standing stella still remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the largest standing stella still remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the largest standing stella still remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: The largest standing stella still remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the largest standing stella still remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Reed boat on display in the museum. I rode in a boat like this up on Lake Titicaca last year.

25 October 2007

Greetings from Tiwanaku,

As I put the finishing touches on this Tiwanaku epistle I am loafing in a truly luxurious hotel with professional housekeeping, lavish buffet breakfasts, fast Internet service... and a bargain $50 room rate. The Hotel Presidente is the best of the affordable five star hotels I've sampled in this city. However, after a couple days of being pampered I looked into what else the region around La Paz might have to offer, memories missed on previous visits.

Tiwanaku is frequently mentioned as an important pre-Incan archaeological site; a must see attraction for any visitor to Bolivia. So I booked a one day tour. The agency didn't warn me the tour company uses a kindergarten school bus to ferry clients to the site. The seats were so narrow even a couple skinny farm girls from Kansas crammed into the seat in front of me spilled over into the isle! Fortunately, the empty seat next to me provided essential expansion room. During the uncomfortable hour and a half ride to the ruins we passed through El-Alto La Paz where our guide noted indigenous Aymara people from the rural areas of the country have been flooding into the city suburb so rapidly it has made El-Alto the fastest growing metropolitan area in the country.

At one point on a small grassy clearing along the road a group of five donkeys were practicing their tripod stance. The Aymara people believe drinking fresh donkey milk is a cure for the common cold, among other ailments and pay up to a dollar for a small glass of the warm healing liquid freshly extracted on the spot. It must be good stuff because that is a lot of money for people who might earn only a few dollars a day!
 
Tiwanaku, a UNESCO World Heritage site is located about forty miles to the west of La Paz. It is the first archaeological site I have ever visited where tourists can watch actual excavation work in progress. One or two hundred laborers carefully removed earth at a dozen locations around the park under watchful eyes of professional archaeologists. The history of the ruins  reveals more mysteries than facts about the place. It is estimated that only about ten percent of the ruins have been uncovered so far. The process is slow, thin layer of soil by thin layer scraped from the surface to protect any ancient artifact that might lay hidden in the dirt. 

Tiwanaku is an important pre-Columbian site, but in its present state of restoration is underwhelming compared to the many other ancient ruins I have seen around the world, including several here in Latin America (Copan Ruinas, Machu Picchu, Lamanai). Originally located on the banks of Lake Titicaca, there is evidence of human activity as early as 12,000BC according to some scholars. The city of Tiwanaku served as a major  population center from 500AD to 950AD after which the original inhabitants mysteriously disappeared. The site is now several miles from the current shores of the lake.

 
I took a lot of photos while inspecting the ruins, but my most interesting shots were taken inside the museum where photography is prohibited. The two photos I managed to get before the highly irritated museum guard told me in menacing English to stop, show a display case full of human skulls. Most are clearly deformed, the consequence of intentional cranial shaping during infancy.
 
Back in La Paz while wandering the city in search of a dentist, I noticed that just about every other office seemed to be occupied by lawyers. Based on my unscientific survey it is clear there are many more Abagados (lawyers) than all of the various kinds of medical professionals put together. Of course, this is the capital city (even though revolutionary proponents want it moved to Sucre), comparable to Washington D.C. No doubt a survey of professionals in the U.S. capital would find similar disparities.

One cannot wander the streets of La Paz without being surrounded by hoards of indigenous Indian people in their distinctive attire. They are everywhere downtown and they are especially politically active since the presidential election of Evo Morales in December 2005.  I have seen them marching and demonstrating nearly everyday in La Paz. The revolution is far from settled in this tumultuous country. Every parade and mass gathering full of Bowler Hats and bulging skirts features extraordinarily loud fireworks... at least I presume the explosions are fireworks! In this country of perennial revolutions one never knows.

I leave for California Friday evening, 2 November and will no doubt remain in hibernation for a while once I reach my in Big Bear Lake hideout. Until I awaken,

Peace

Fred L Bellomy

PS: Apparently the enthusiasm with which I described my adventures on the salt flats of Uyuni last time touched several generally silent readers. Most of my literary efforts produce a complimentary comment or two from especially devoted friends who are inclined to see some good in almost anything I do; something that motivates me to continue sharing my work, by the way. However, the flurry of exuberant responses this time came as a surprise:

"I found this postcard to be your best so far. Your writing and the funny way you speak of your experiences had me laughing several times."
"Your Postcard from Uyuni was the best yet!"

"You hit a home run with that one. The Salt Palace must have been inspirational."
"We continue to read your postcards with interest, especially the part about the salt hotel."
"That sounds great!"
"Wow! Fred, that is fantastic."
"I loved the Salt Palace.  Absolutely fascinating."
"Amazing!!!!!!!!!!"


Now if I could only figure out what I did especially right this time I could start planning that Pulitzer Prize acceptance speech. Of course that would mean polishing the piece considerably, not a particularly appealing prospect... at least not until the wanderlust abandons my spirit... or until I have finally seen every amazing thing on this earth... or my brain rebels and demands a rest.  FB

PPS: I always search the Internet for supporting materials when putting the final touches on these postcards. Two particularly interesting reference sites popped up this time: Latin America's New Leftists National & World Religion Statistics.  Worth a look. FB

PPPS: Nicholas Negroponte had a dream: one laptop for every child on the planet. The "$100" gadget is ready, but African governments have been slow to make commitments for the millions of units needed to affect economy of scale. So, he is looking for donations of a sort. For two weeks (that ended 26 November 2007) he is offering two units for $400: one to be donated to a child in a developing nation and one for donors to use anyway they wish. There are so many technological innovations incorporated into this little green box I hope to get one just to see how well Linux works on it ... and for the free included one year subscription to T-Mobile HotSpot access. As charitable contributions go, this one offers donors a lot more than a $200 tax deduction. FB

 

 



Tiwanaku Bolivia: Our tour guide explains details of the archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Entrance to the Archaeological park. Notice the Indian spelling of the name.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Entrance to the Archaeological park.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Our guide waits for everyone to reach the wall around the main large assembly area.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Architectural model of the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Stellas in the middle of the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: The wall around the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Wall around the large open assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: The largest standing gate remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Entry gate for the gods into the large open assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details on the largest standing gate remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details on the largest standing gate remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Display of skulls in the museum unearthed during the archaeological work at the ruins. Most of the skulls are deformed showing the consequences of intentional cranial shaping during infancy.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: View of La Paz as seen from El Alto above.

 
END

 

 

 

 

 

Need to reorganize photos & check captions.

 

 


Deformed skulls found during the excavations


One of the many active dig sites. Work is slow and carefully monitored by roaming archaeologists.


Overview of an active work area


Sole remaining anthropomorphic pillar left standing on the grounds of the ruins; all others have been removed to museums.


Walls around the Semi-subterranean Temple are decorated with 175 human faces like these.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Stellas in the middle of the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: The largest standing gate remaining at the site, the Portal of the Sun.


Details of decorations above the door in the re-erected Portal of the Sun


Masthead on a museum replica of a reed boat commonly seen on Lake Titicaca.

Tiwanaku Bolivia: Indigenous people distinguishable by their dress can be seen doing most of the archaeological work at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Entrance to the Archaeological park.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Entrance to the Archaeological park.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Wall around the main large assembly area.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Stellas in the middle of the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Some of our group pause on an unexcavated mound to view the entire site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Archaeological work in progress at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the wall around the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the wall around the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the wall around the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the wall around the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the wall around the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Details of the wall around the sunken assembly yard.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: The largest standing stella still remaining at the site.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Megaphone hole in a wall. Sound is greatly amplified and focused by this artifact. Speaking into it, people fifty feet away could hear a whisper... and listening at the hole one could hear people talking at a distance.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Megaphone hole in a wall. Sound is greatly amplified and focused by this artifact. Speaking into it, people fifty feet away could hear a whisper... and listening at the hole one could hear people talking at a distance.


Tiwanaku Bolivia: Gate removed from the archaeological site and on display in the museum entrance.

 

Reference photo: author
 August 2002
 

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