Burkina Faso
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Postcards from:
Ouagadougou


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Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: This is the manager of the Hotel Soritel I used during the 8 days I spent in this capital city in the heart of west Africa.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Typical vendor stalls along the street in front of my hotel.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Typical vendor stalls along the street in front of my hotel.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Typical vendor stalls along the street in front of my hotel.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Entrance to the Hotel Soritel where I stayed while in Ogodogo.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Entrance to the only super market I could find near the center of town.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Looking down one of the the isles of the only super market in the center of the city.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Looking down one of the the isles of the only super market in the center of the city.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: This is the cyber cafe building near my Hotel.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: This is the cyber cafe building near my Hotel.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: The freight transfer district.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Typical street scene.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Small quantities of charcoal displayed for sale.


Ouagadougou to OUAHIGOUYA Burkina Faso: Everywhere the bus stopped hawkers mobbed the bus offering anything they thought they might be able to sell to travelers.

 

SmallBook17 October 2001

Hello from Ouagadougou Burkina Faso:

Burkina Faso means Integrity Village or Honest People Place according to one local informant. That's what the country's name means. As far as I can tell, it is an accurate reflection of the national character. Maybe that's why I see so many young beggars on the streets. At least begging is honest. Beggars all carry an empty coffee can "begging bowl" and are rather matter of fact about their appeals: no pathetic pleading expressions persistently shoved in the faces of mainly white foreigners. I think some of the people who have approached me really are hungry, especially in the small villages along the road we traveled from Dapaong Togo. Some of the kids had distended abdomens.

Coffee and bread consumed at my Dapong hotel near the border in Togo, I grabbed a bush-taxi to the Burkina Faso border and crossed with no hassle. Both countries use the same currency so there were no moneychangers insisting they offered the best rates. With little cross border traffic, I found only two options for onward transportation to Ouagadougou, the capital city of Burkina Faso.

The "deluxe" bus had that 2+3 skinny seat arrangement and an uncertain departure time. The waiting bush-taxi seemed to be ready to leave... but of course they are always just about ready to leave! I negotiated for the front two seats and settled down to wait. The driver and conductor were busy making deals for cargo right and left, while reassuring me we would soon, very soon leave for the capital.

By the time we did get started the cargo on top of the van had doubled the height of the vehicle. I worried we might be top heavy, but I seemed to be the only one worried and they stacked ever more bags of stuff higher on the pile.

While I waited I once again had the opportunity to watch the casual public peeing. Guys hardly made any effort to keep their protruding anatomy out of sight. Women squatted wherever they felt the urge.

At last at 10:30 the top of the van unable to hold anything more and the back of the van full of military age young men we were off. The driver seemed to know every important person along our 6-hour route, dispensing gifts of goods and money at every stop and police checkpoint. In retrospect, he might well have been a smuggler or involved in some other nefarious activity. He certainly was an operator, glad handing at every turn. At one point we stopped in a parking lot and much of the cargo was off loaded and opened. The boxes contained bread. A half dozen ladies haggled over selection and pricing for a half hour with the driver/operator.

As we approached the capital city we suddenly stopped while the driver ran back to confer with a large modern bus following us. When they returned I was shuffled back to the front seats in the bus for the last hour of the trip, arriving in the Ouagadougou about 17:00. As luck would have it, a great hotel sat not more than two blocks from the bus station. The Hotel Soritel offered me a great room with all of the essentials for about $46 per night and treated me like an honored guest. Checking a number of other up-scale hotels in the city, mine turned out to be the best value by far.

This part of the world is hot and dry; clothes dry in a few hours. Air conditioning is a must and I often ran back to the hotel to cool down between my forays into the shopping areas or to the modern $2/hr cyber cafe.


Peace,
Fred L Bellomy
 


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: a lovely Mosque in the center of the capital city. All of the Muslims I saw seemed to be gentle, peaceful folk. Daily prayer is practiced on the streets using cardboard "rugs" after the ritual washing of hands, feet and faces.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Hard to see in the picture, but that is a live chicken seller and his stock on the ground.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: There are a lot more motorbikes on the roads here than cars.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: The streets are crowded with motorbike traffic... many more bikes than cars.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: This is a monument to the Malian film industry.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Typical street scene; the hand cart is common and used for moving all sorts of cargo from the cross country freight trucks to individual stores in the city.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Moments after I took this shot of a typical street scene some guy came running toward me shouting in a local language... I believe protesting my taking "his" picture, though I don't see him in the picture I did take.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: These guys seemed to be amused that I would take a picture of their piles of grain displayed for sale. I turned the camera on them for a moment and snapped this picture.

 

End

 

 

 

 


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: a lovely Mosque in the center of the capital city. All of the Muslims I saw seemed to be gentle, peaceful folk. Daily prayer is practiced on the streets using cardboard "rugs" after the ritual washing of hands, feet and faces.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: This sign caught my attention in the capital city. I wonder what is flamboyant about their medical practice.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: a lovely Mosque in the center of the capital city. All of the Muslims I saw seemed to be gentle, peaceful folk. Daily prayer is practiced on the streets using cardboard "rugs" after the ritual washing of hands, feet and faces.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: This sign reminds me of all the Christian churches I saw in addition to many Mosques. The farther north I go here in west Africa, the more Muslims I see. For the past few weeks about 300Km east of where I've been there have been religious riots: hundreds of infidels killed by Muslim fanatics.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Typical vendor stalls along the street in front of my hotel.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Typical vendor stalls along the street in near my hotel.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Entrance to the Hotel Soritel where I stayed while in Ogodogo.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Looking down one of the the isles of the only super market in the center of the city.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Looking down one of the the isles of the only super market in the center of the city.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Looking down one of the the isles of the only super market in the center of the city.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: I saw many scenes like this all over town during the hot afternoon hours. Most people had enough sense to get out of the sun, though.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: The streets are crowded with motorbike traffic... many more bikes than cars.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: typical street scene.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: The freight transfer district.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: This is the first of a series of three shots I took here. The next one aimed down the street caused someone to be upset with having their picture taken.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: These are new water delivery carts being offered for sale to sellers of drinking water. They wander the streets with these selling "pure" water for drinking by the liter.


Ouagadougou Burkina Faso: Here is one of the many neighborhood "GAS STATIONS" catering to motorbikes one sees all over west Africa.

 


Postcards from:
Ouahigouya

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OUAHIGOUYA Burkina Faso: No matter what ails you, this outfit has a cure. It seems to be a government approved traditional medical service.


OUAHIGOUYA Burkina Faso: Got syphilis, hemorrhoids, or any of the other listed ailments? No problem. Just pop into our offices for quick relief. No extra charge for drum music.

 

25 October 2001

Greetings from Ouahigouya 

A brief one night stopover in this dusty little town in the North West part of Burkina Faso is all I could tolerate. The best hotel in town, the Hothe del' Amitie at $25 offered a glimpse of what people consider luxury in this unbelievably dusty part of the world. Fortunately, the place did have air conditioning and hot water for a shower, but little else.

Leaving the very basic hotel at the crack of dawn, I hoped to catch an early bus to Koro, a village just across the border in Mali. The "bus station" here is like many in small African towns: a dirt parking lot crowded with various configurations of vehicles and a cramped office for the dispatcher. This particular tiny office also had a tiny service window and the dispatcher, who spoke no English, sat some distance back in the dim interior. After several minutes trying to make him understand I wanted two seats on the next bus to the border, him failing to understand my request in poor French and my straining to hear his whispered answers, I marched around to the side of the room and stood in the doorway. There, with gestures and the assistance of several other helpful people, we got the transaction completed. Part of his problem turned out to be my request for two tickets and the absence of a second person, a misunderstanding I've run into before. With tickets for two seats ($7 both) I boarded the old, but well maintained bus. In three hours we reached the border stopping for customs inspections some distance beyond the Mali border itself. The village of Koro where I hoped to find transportation onward lies another block further along the sandy track. (cont.)


Peace,
Fred L Bellomy

 

End

 


 

 

 

 

Ouahigouya Burkina Faso: Bus ticket sellers window. The guy sat a meter behind the window in the dark and spoke no English. Finally, in desperation I walked around to the side door and confronted him with my gestures and limited French until I made him understand I wanted two seats on his bus to the Mali border.  He had a hard time understanding why anyone would pay for two tickets... after all, other people commonly stacked their baggage and other cargo in every available space on the bus for free.

 


OUAHIGOUYA Burkina Faso: This is the breakfast cafe in the little hotel I used for one night on my way to Mali.

 


OUAHIGOUYA Burkina Faso: This is the quite nice "delux" bus out of Ouahigouya that took me just across the border to Koro Mali. There is NOTHING in Koro but transportation onward, and that only when enough people show up to fill a bush-taxi.

Reference photo: author
 August 2002
 

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