Hello from Ollantaytambo near Machu Picchu,
(Text from the Machu Picchu page)
All of the trains from Cuzco to Machu Picchu Pueblo (the
new official name for Agua Caliente below the ruins) leave early in the
morning and don't arrive until the afternoon. Learning of the luxury
Vistadome service starting at the halfway point in Ollantaytambo,
I decided to take the Sacred
Valley tour and hop off the tour bus near the end of the tour in
Ollantaytambo. We made several stops on the way: a spectacular arts and
crafts town near the ruins of Pisac
and the ruins of Ollantaytambo and adjacent village where the railroad
connection to Machu Picchu is located. Arriving a little before noon I
checked out the train station and close-by accommodations. The resort
like three star $89 Hotel
Pakaritampu located a half block from the train boarding
platform had no available rooms and the receptionist suggested another
"good hotel" that must have been run by a very close
friend of hers as it would have been inaccurate to describe any
aspect of the bare boards place as good.
Checking around the plaza (all towns in South America have
a central plaza!) I found an open door marked "Hostel"
and went in. A friendly girl with a bare smattering of English showed me
the room she had: simple, view of the ruins, clean, hot water,
breakfast and 35 Soles (about $10). I took it. After checking in I
walked the kilometer back down the hill to the train station ticket
window and bought my $35 ticket for the 10:30AM run the following day on
the fabled Vistadome rail service. The ticket window even at this late
hour had hoards of tourists clustered around it. Everyone seemed to have
a complicated question that needed an involved answer. Finally I
reached the window and had my uncomplicated ticket in a minute! Before
returning to my hovel I stopped in at the Pakaritampu Hotel and had
a wonderful avocado-chicken salad dinner complete with a glass of white
house wine, all for under ten dollars.
The next morning at 5:30AM when I awoke an old guy sweeping
up around the hostel indicated the included breakfast might be ready at
9AM, guiding me as he spoke in Spanish to a sleepy cafe around the
corner. With over three hours to kill, I climbed around the ruins for a
while where early risers were bathing in the still functional Inca baths
supplied by the channeled river water. Crossing to the other side of the
river I walked the still inhabited ancient residential area along
the bank of the river. Ollantaytambo is the last living Inca town in the
world. Many people who live here still speak the ancient Inca language.
Some of the older people didn't even seem to understand my attempts in
Spanish to be pleasant. Walking the narrow warren of corridors that
serve as interconnecting streets in this charming Indian enclave proved
to be the highlight of my brief stay here. I could easily imagine life in
this simple collection of stone neighborhoods five hundred years ago.
Little has changed. After being satisfied I had seen enough of the
surviving Inca lifestyle I went back down to the luxurious Pakaritampu Hotel
for an excellent $6 buffet breakfast with the hotel's registered guests
before returning to get my things in preparation for the train ride down
the river to Machu Picchu Pueblo.
Fed and packed I strolled down to the gated fence which
separates the throngs of hotel touts, taxi drivers, waiting tour buses,
and anxious passengers from the actual boarding platform. At 10:00 sharp
the gate keeper allowed those of us with visible tickets to pass into
the inner sanctums. For the next hour multiple blue engines, some with
one or two passenger cars maneuvered back and forth in front of the
station. Each time one would stop our cluster of 10:30 passengers would
line up to board. Finally, a half hour late the distinctive Vistadome
cars appeared and after departing passengers cleared we all climbed
aboard to find our assigned seats. Service on this luxury train is like
that on an airline. Stewards pushed refreshment carts up and down the
isle dispensing complimentary light snacks and beverages...